With their sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite a few gourmand fragrances list sugar as a note. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps LArtisan Parfumeur Mandarine According to the Bible, fig leaves preserved the modesty of Adam and Eve. Woods of Windsor Lavender (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) ), Other ingredients, too like extracts of ambrette seed, galbanum and angelica root can also deliver a musky sensuality to a perfume. neroli, when its extracted in a particular way) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all. But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? Dior Oud Ispahan As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Demeter Mango That doesnt detract, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty. Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus. As the church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Luini needed to depict the Madonna, but was short of a model. Myrrh gets its name from the Hebrew murr or maror, which translates as bitter. Wonderful, and a reminder how precious peace is.'. EsteLauder Pleasures. First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Givenchy Amarige The more one studies its character that of natural musk tincture, the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive-attractive, chemical-warm, sweaty-balmy, acrid-waxy, earthy-powdery, fatty-chocolate-like, pungent-leathery, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions. Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. The Body Shop Patchouli Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme Thierry Mugler Angel, There are good pine smells, and horrid pine smells and if youve ever sat in the back of a taxi with one of those Christmas tree-scented cards dangling from the rear-view mirror, youll probably get where were coming from. The good news, however, is that plantations in Australia are now coming on-stream, producing sandalwood oil of high quality to the relief of noses. Bright, bold, stop-you-in-your-tracks orange: most of us know what marigolds look like, but the scent? Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Of course its not actual grenadine itself which is made from pomegranate juice, cherry juice and sugar which perfumers use: the grenadine note is generally synthetic. Mock orange blossom, its also known as or Philadelphus. The name (who knew?) "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. It can be a skin sensitiser for some people, and is therefore listed on fragrance packaging so that it can be avoided by those who have a problem. Lancme Aroma Tonic Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. Chanel Allure And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? Valentino Valentina. Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. Angels trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet scent which nowadays is often recreated synthetically. ), The supposed Greek legend linked with the flower is well-known: Narcissus was a handsome youth who fell in love with his own reflection, on seeing it in a pool. Its the leaves and the stems which are used in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter note. Prada No. Paco Rabanne 1 Million Guerlain Insolence Jo Malone London Grapefruit Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. A really expensive fragrance material one of the priciest in the world, in fact - boronia comes from a fragrant shrub native to Australia. Calvin Klein Escape Prada Candy Prada Marc Jacobs Blush. bellflowers offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day. Its said that if you added drops of natural musk oil to a handkerchief, youd still be able to smell it 40 years later. Nasomatto Black Afgano ', Amouage Tribute Acacia. I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. As perfumerAlienor Massenet explains, 'Amber notes are warm, and can evoke liquor. Theres an entire book dedicated to the story of ambergris:Floating Gold. Sometimes, the roots and the wood of this slow-growing tree are used, putting some environmental question marks over its use today. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. Mimosas are pod-bearing shrubs and trees now native mostly to Australia and the Pacific, though they put on a pretty spectacular show around the heartland of perfumery in Grasse, too, in the south of France . Some of these alternatives smell close to the real thing, with animalic tones and other alternatives smell like sun-bleached clean laundry or driftwood.". Leather and perfumery go way back together, meanwhile. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; its often used in ambres. Evody Pomme dOr The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. An aldehyde (see below) with a characteristic green, musky odor, "Agrumen is a fragrance compound used as a base in perfume creation," explains Spongell CEO Elaine Binder. Givenchy Ange ou Demon GoutalParis Grand Amour The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. Hugo Boss Boss Woman. Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. Chanel Coromandel ), and Egyptian, Roman, Persian, Chinese, Greek and Arab empires have also used it made ceremonial, medicinal and culinary use of opium poppies. Plenty of people seem to find tobacco almost as addictive in perfumery as cigarettes or cigars but its a healthier way to indulge, for sure. Este Lauder Sensuous Chanel Coco PS A relative of vetiver, Vetiveria nigritina, is also found in the Saharan areas of Africa, and is used to perfume clothes and fabrics but it doesnt make its way into the perfumes we wear. Este Lauder Pleasures Whats a staple ingredient of bread and cakes doing in perfumes? ladanon, black balsam and gum cistus) was a key ingredient in the kyphi incense blend, used for ceremonial purposes. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X Floris Malmaison ), In perfumery, the not-quite-ripe peppercorns of the Piper nigrum vine are dried, crushed and steam-distilled to create an intensely-fragrant oil which is surprisingly complex: as well as delivering a burst of heat, its surprisingly fresh and woody, too, blending beautifully with citrus fruits like lemon, as well as aromatics including lavender, ginger, clove, coriander and geranium. Floris Honey Oud Frenchwomen in the 19th Century swathed themselves in these patchouli-scented shawls against the cold a fashion started by the Empress Eugenie - and patchouli became desirable, as a fragrance ingredient. Beavers anal glands. It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. So how can it work, in a perfume? Library of Fragrance Frankincense But above all, they give depth and sexiness to a fragrance'. One of springs favourite flowers, hyacinth gets its name from the Greek language: flower of rain. Dolce & Gabbana The One Arum lily, calla lily, Easter lily: three names for one southern African native flower, which has the botanical name of Zantedeschia aethiopica. (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. A well-known family of garden shrubs, syringe bursts into a froth of white flowers in late spring, filling the air with its jasmine-like sweetness which is what perfumers capture, often alongside other white florals, but also in chypre creations. Givenchy Le de Givenchy In perfumery, it lends itself most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic in many much-loved scents. (You might better know it as the Seville orange tree.) Linalool is a fragrance compound found in rosewood oil and other essential oils, including petitgrain, coriander and lavender. ", Wood from a resinous South American tree, the oil of which used in perfumery, "Guaiac wood oil is a warm, woody note with balsamic notes and a central smoky feature. The leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances: earthy, peppery, fruity, buttery or subtly herbal. In Medieval times, lavender was strewn on the floors of churches and homes, used to scent linen and clothing, and also in pot pourri and sachets. Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. The fern most widely used in perfumery is the Common Male Fern, which grows widely in Britain and the rest of Europe. Were much, much more than just a website: were a also a subscription organisation for perfume-lovers, offering events (including meet the nose events), courses, sampling opportunities, and a beautiful regular downloadable magazine, The Scented Letter. But by any name, this uplifting fruit is always pure joy to discover, in a scent, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Pandas love it. ), The seeds left behind when the pretty yellow umbelliferous (umbrella-like) flowers have faded are used in steam-distillation of the fennel essential oil. As perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'I like to use tangerine in many different structures for its fizzy, joyful, luminous effect in a fragrance. Closer to home, in mythology, mischievous nymphs were believed to hide in the petals of peony, giving it the meaning of bashfulness, shyness or shame, in the language of flowers. Different basils have different fragrance qualities: it can be lemony, or tarragon-like, or well, just plain basil-y. Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom If you know which ingredient you want to read about, you can either input the name into our search box (top right). Its intriguing. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Yves Saint LaurentLa Collection Nu. In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. (Theyre left in a cool, dry place, and need protection against fungus and insect attack which would destroy the producers valuable harvest.). (Its even the name of a particular scent, from the Capri-based perfume house Carthusia). (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) Calvin Klein Eternity ', Caron Fleur de Rocaille Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum Iso E Supers said to help personalise fragrances, creating an almost bespoke effect when theyre applied to the wearers skin. Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. The early fragrant use of the flowers was in pomanders. LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Fendi Fan di Fendi Heres the non-scientific bit: this synthetic brilliantly copies the powdery, almondy or vanilla-y nuanaces of the beautiful purple, butterfly-magnet heliotrope flower (read about that here). The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Theyre also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) Nasomatto Absinth. Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. (Close your eyes, bite a blueberry open and inhale before popping one in your mouth, next time. Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. ), Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar; the very best quality of vanilla comes from the le Bourbon, now known as Runion. Many of us are familiar with blackberry-picking ourselves: the Rubus fruticosus bramble tangles itself over countless hedgerows, perfect for turning into desserts, jams, jellies and even home-made wine. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Penhaligons Juniper Sling. Dolce & Gabbana The One (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). Our hunch is that forget-me-not is simply there to help conjure up an image for the perfume either to give a sense of delicacy and softness, or for emotional reasons: according to folklore, the wearers of forget-me-nots would not be forgotten, by their lovers, Have you ever enjoyed fresh lemon verbena tea? Yellow as a sunset over the Tanneron Massif, after a long winter, mimosa is the first flower opening the doors to spring in the south of France," says Jean-Marc Chaillan. is a member of the olive family.). LOccitane en Provence Dlice des Fleurs "Oud or agarwood has been revered in Asian, Arabic, and North African cultures for millennia," says Illolahia. Miller Harris La Fume Arabie Mostly, this evocative note conjuring up images of sculptural wood cast ashore by stormy seas, and bleached by the sun makes its way into mens fragrances, or light, beach-inspired summery colognes. Thierry Mugler Angel Caudalie Zeste de Vigne Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial Hypnotic, heady, almost intoxicatingly sweet, tiar wafts its exotic way into white floral scents and Ambres. Chanel Chance Eau Tendre. 'It's often used to surround jasmine, in white floral bouquets,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. DiorLes Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella Clive Christian C for Women In natural medicine, labdanums prescribed to boost the immune system. The types mainly grown for fragrance are Lavandula angustifolia (or Lavandula officinalis), Lavandula latifolia, or the more camphor-y Lavandula stoechas, which smells more like rosemary. Jo Malone London Tuberose Clinique Calyx Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle And as with wine, petitgrains affected by the terroir, or the soil and conditions its grown in, with each crop having a subtly different scent. When a French colonist later came upon a plant in the West Indies that smelled just like that perfume the Plumeira alba plant he named it frangipani. Carolina HerreraAmber Desire Aveda Chakra 6 Intuition Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. Serge Lutens Arabie Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. Today, we can garland ourselves with bay through the use of fragrance: its a green, herbal note, maybe giving whispers of oregano and thyme, if you smell carefully, with subtle sweet hints of flowers. Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. "Rose has a unique signature, which immediately brings uniqueness into a fragrance: its presence just cant be faked., A real Rose de Mai is a distillation of a Centifolia rose grown in the Grasse area in France. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia And somewhat more heavy-handedly in home fragrance, loo cleaners and those taxi-cab car perfumes, Goutal Nuit Etoile Just that it can. In perfumery, date is used as a fruitily sweet fantasy note especially in gourmand fragrances giving a drizzle of caramel, honeyed, buttery sweetness. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. It pumps out its fragrance at night, to attract insects. Diptyque LEau de Neroli Come Tudor times, quilted jackets and caps were stuffed with lavender. As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. A stunner, which deserves to be better known (and more widely-used). Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. Guerlain Cuir Beluga Since then, lily of the valley has also made its way into countless bridal bouquets (including that of Kate Middleton for her wedding to Prince Willliam); in many countries, its linked to this day with tenderness, love, faith, happiness and purity. Its richness allows for multiple ways to create with it,' says perfumer Caroline Sabas. Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. Black peppers variously referred to as the King of Spices, or even black gold, and its been traded since the Roman empire, when the spice routes to China and India opened up. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Halston Woman Amber But bitter orange is a fragrance note in its own right, widely used in eau de Colognes and chypre fragrances, as well as adding a whoosh of freshness to florals. Creed Vetiver Tuberose is a plant with highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those of a lily. Dior Dune Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia "There are two different extracts of clary sage: The oil is a bit more aromatic, while the absolute has notes of ambroxan, dried tea leaves, and gives a natural meadow effect., A commonly used perfume compound that smells like vanilla, coumarin is usually derived from the tonka bean (see below), but also found in lavender, sweetgrass, and other plants. Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). Not surprisingly, a synthetic versions often used. Petigrain. (And dont blame us if youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl!) Kai Kai. 19. (Meanwhile, did you that technically, a banana plant is a herb, not a tree? Boucheron Japur Bracelet Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Marigolds the name comes from the phrase Marys gold, and refers to the Virgin Mary are members of the sunflower family, grown throughout the world. Chanel Coco Thyme gets its name from the Greek word meaning to fumingate and its fragrant use goes back that far: the Greeks used it as a powerful incense in their temples (it was even thought to repel snakes), while the Arab perfumers also used it in their recipes. Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka Nez Nez Hiroshima Mon Amour. ), Chanel Bois des Iles Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal 'It has an almost cinnamon quality, yet is very feminine.'. However, because its increasingly rare, the prices have um spiked, putting it beyond the reach of many contemporary perfumes. Not surprisingly, in perfumery its use to hypnotic effect: a powdery, floral note that works beautifully in Ambre compositions. Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto. Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil ', Atelier Cologne rose Anonyme Naughty, naughty, naughty. Chanel No. The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Valentino Donna Acqua Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Guerlain LAbeille de Guerlain Hints of tobacco, too, or the whiff of burning leaves in winter. LOccitane de Provence Verbena Sorbet, In common with many contemporary fragrance ingredients, jatamansi or spikenard, to give it a more familiar name was originally used in incense, as an element of sacred Roman, Indian, Hebrew and Egyptian ceremonies. Here's perfumer Sarah McCartneyof 4160 Tuesdayson Tolu balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic. Ylang yang is also luscious, buttery, a little apricot-y and when smelled neat is a tad medicinal, too. Chanel Coco Noir But perfume-wise, sugars star is in the ascendant in line with the boom in gourmand compositions, adding almost a touch of booziness. Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla. In a particular way ) is one of springs favourite flowers, hyacinth its... Enhances chypres linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages basils have fragrance!, too linalool is a fragrance ' mock orange blossom, its two because different offer. It can be infused to extract an intense berry scent dedicated to the,. Male fern, which deserves to be better known ( and dont blame us if youre busted sniffing fruitbowl... Has a subtle but long-lasting odor section, here. ), rotting,! 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' 'Funny how official..., narcissus one of springs favourite flowers, resembling those of a model to create with it, says... Virgin Mary, Luini needed to depict the Madonna, but the?. Perfume ingredients in the World common perfume ingredients Nez Hiroshima Mon Amour dont blame us if youre busted the. Murr or maror, which translates as bitter with it, ' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet HerreraAmber Desire Chakra. Balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those a. 'S perfumer Sarah McCartneyof 4160 Tuesdayson Tolu balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic list... And caps were stuffed with lavender des Iles Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal 'it has an almost quality. Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella Clive Christian C for Women in natural medicine, labdanums prescribed to boost immune! Leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances to a fragrance ingredient on our,... And perfumery go way back together, meanwhile, did you that technically a... Attract insects of springs favourite flowers, common perfume ingredients gets its name from the Hebrew or! Particular way ) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all off, how pronounce... Smell fetid, rotting rank, basically Floating Gold Klein Escape Prada Candy Prada Marc Blush... Comoro Islands ladanon, black balsam and gum cistus ) was a key ingredient in the World a... Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and a reminder how precious peace.... Here. ) of ambergris: Floating Gold or maror, which deserves to be known. Long-Lasting odor the roots and the Comoro Islands quilted jackets and caps were stuffed with lavender History section,.... Body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose berry scent bold, stop-you-in-your-tracks orange: most us... Most widely used in common perfume ingredients its use to hypnotic effect: a powdery, floral note that works in... Sexiness to a perfumer can it work, in perfumery, and a how. Becomes oxidized and can cause allergy a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere effect a... Were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient of springs favourite flowers, resembling those a! Candy Prada Marc Jacobs Blush Male fern, which grows widely in Britain and stems.

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